Page 45 - Breath of the Bear
P. 45

you there so it’s either float plan or boat service.  Brooks Falls Bears
          Many feel the king of bear  viewing  would
        have to be at Brooks Falls in Katmai. The Brooks
        Camp area is truly wild Alaska. No roads will get
        Brooks Camp campground and lodge are
        adjacent to the mouth of Brooks River, which     K        A        T        M         A        I
        flows out of Brooks Lake into Naknek Lake, with                                                    by Bill Feller
        Brooks Falls in the middle.

          We  weren’t even done landing on our  way   where one of the fattest brownies  would   watched and quietly visited until we were filled.
        in before we saw a pair of bears sparring in the   sit, then move frequently to the shore to   Maybe not as stuffed as the roly-poly bears, but
        water, and it only got better from there. After   devour his catches. Several other bears   sufficiently  satisfied.  Of  course  the walk  home
        the ranger orientation at the visitor center and   with not enough seniority to claim a prime   left our bellies growling like  you know  what,
        getting set up in the campground, we headed   spot  wandered back and forth among the   so we fired up the little camp stove quickly. On
        across the bridge over the river and up the   thousands of salmon  wanting to get up   the  way  back  to  the  evening  ranger  talk,  the
        trail to Brooks Falls. Shortly after we got to the   beyond the falls to spawn.  trail was blocked off because of the fatso that
        railed and elevated boardwalk, we saw bears                               we saw strolling past on the beach outside the
        on either side. Then a side short walk took us   After the evening ranger presentation,   campground. He had plopped down for a little
        to the lower  viewing platform, a  ways below   there  was just enough daylight left to see   rest.
        but  within sight of the falls. Surrounded by   our  way on the trail inside the tree line to
        salmon,  several  bears  were  fishing  or  playing   the campground. Halfway along, we realized   The trip  was not essential to see the
        in the water in front and some came back into   why we were warned not to walk the beach.   brown bears of Alaska as they can be viewed
        the  woods alongside the  boardwalk.  There   That’s the bear trail, and in use.  We didn’t   elsewhere  for  less  cost,  but  there  is  a  certain
        they play-fought right below us for quite   stop to see if the bear was just strolling, or   rush  to  experiencing  things  first  hand. Almost
        awhile  before  wandering  off.  We  made  our   bedding down, or stalking. Our focus was the   anything can be seen on the TV or computer
        way up to the upper viewing platform to get a   gate to the electrified cable fence around the   and many people watch the Brooks Falls bears
        much closer look at those we had seen from a   campground. There was a different version of   on webcam at home, but there is no comparison
        distance. Time flew as we snapped our shutters   that encounter every night we were there.   to being there in person. So we, like so many
        and  gorged ourselves  on the  sight  of several                          others, do what we can afford. In our case, it was
        already quite fat brown balls of fur feasting on   The next day at the falls  we stood and   well worth the cost.
        salmon after salmon.

          Each bear had his or her own technique.
        There was always one up on the lip of the falls,
        waiting to catch a fish in the air as it made its
        run to “fly” up over the falls. Below was one in
        the “jacuzzi” that would grab fish that bounced
        back after an unsuccessful attempt.  A little
        ways away a sub-adult chased the red salmon
        in more shallow  water. Out in the middle, a
        “diver” had his head under water in his search.
        Far across, there seemed to be a calm pond







































                                                                                                           Jim Griffin
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