Page 176 - Vacation Country Travel Guide
P. 176

“Today’s village bakers are finding   Glenn Van Dyck grew up with the smell of his mom’s fresh baked bread. Feeling the pull of Alaska, he left California
         an important new role - linking   and headed straight for Cordova, where he carries on the baking tradition.  After fishing commercially for salmon
                                           throughout the state, Glenn began pursuing his true passion, a “calling” to liberate delicious loaves from inert raw
          tradition with a sophisticated   ingredients.  He taught himself to bake from books and purchased an inn in 1999 with space for a brick oven where he
                                           constructed the precursor to the larger one he uses today.
          new understanding of natural       Bouncing back from the loss of his family and business to divorce, Glenn scouted out a small space at Nichol’s Front
        leavens, baking science and oven   Door Store in downtown Cordova where he was able to build a new oven. With bricks delivered from Anchorage, he
                                           labored with the construction over a 4-month period, using The Bread Builders: Hearth Loaves and Masonry Ovens by
                 construction.”            Alan Scott and Daniel Wing and oven blueprint plans he researched on the internet.
                                             Glenn builds his fire within the oven’s depths in the morning on the day before he bakes, using 4-foot lengths of hot-
          See Video                        burning alder wood that burn down about 10 hours later.  As the masonry sucks heat deep into its mass, temperatures
                                           rise to almost 1000 degrees, slowly falling to baking temperatures retained for up to 36 hours.  While tending the fire,
                                           Glenn prepares his loaves and retards them in the cooler for baking early the next day.
                                             For the past few years, the Front Door Store has been his primary outlet, although Glenn also sells to local bistros.
                                           Once commercial fishing fleets get busy in May, the crews make sure to snatch up most of his goods: mouthwatering
                                           sourdough loaves, aromatic French bread, fresh ground whole grain flour breads and amazing sticky buns. With no
                                           other real bakery in town, most bread is channeled up frozen from Seattle and California.
                                             Glenn also defines himself as a gardener, creatively accommodating the short growing season and muskeg-based
                                           topsoil, while inspiring local school kids to try their hand at growing Brussels sprouts, turnips, beets, cabbage and
                                           Yukon Gold potatoes. For the past several years, he has lived off the grid in a 12’ by 16’ cabin located 6 miles west of
                                           Cordova, biking 45 minutes into town even in the dead of winter!
                                             So if you’re craving fresh Alaskan sourdough bread or a delicious sticky bun be sure to check out Glenn’s unbeatable
                                           selection at the Front Door Store in Cordova.

                                                                                is  common  to  see  fishermen  on  the  docks  mending
                                                                                their nets or tenders tied alongside one of the many
                                                                                processing plants adjacent to Cordova’s harbor where
                                                                                they offload fishermen’s catches.
                                                                                  Locally  owned  and  operated  flight  charter
                                                                                companies can take you soaring above the delta
                                                                                in  charter  planes  and  helicopters.  Hunting,  fishing
                                                                                and outdoor adventure charters can guide you to the
                                                                                Cordova area’s secret places. Combination jet boat/
                                                                                ATV operators can escort you to the Million Dollar
                                                                                Bridge and Childs Glacier.
                                                                                  Although  erosion  has  at  least  temporarily  limited
                                                                                road access for the last quarter of the trip, the drive
                                                                                along the Copper River Highway heading east
                                                                                from downtown Cordova through the river delta is
                                                                                considered one of Alaska’s most scenic. The highway
                                                                                passes through a spectacular landscape of rugged
                                                                                mountains  and  glaciers,  icy  blue  ponds  and  fishing
                                                                                streams, where the short side road to Sheridan Glacier






      Cordova                                Modern-day Cordova owes its origin to Michael J.
        Location:  Situated  on  the  southeast  shore  of   Heney, builder of the Copper River and Northwestern
        Prince  William  Sound in southcentral Alaska.   Railway. The town was chosen as the railroad terminus
                                           and ocean-shipping port for copper ore transported
        There is  Alaska Marine Highway service
        between  Valdez, Cordova and  Whittier, and   by rail from the Kennecott mines near Kennecott and
        48-minute  daily  jet service  from  Anchorage.   McCarthy. The railroad and town prospered until 1938
        Population: 2585. Visitor Information: Cordova   when the mine closed. Following the end of copper
        Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center, 404   mining activity, seafood became the area’s major
                                           economic base. Cordova was considered the “Razor
        First Street; Phone: (907) 424-7260;  Website:
        www.cordovachamber.com.            Clam Capitol of the World” until the legendary 1964
                                           Earthquake,  which  exposed  their  beds.  But  resilient
        If you are looking for an authentic  Alaskan   Cordova switched gears and focused on herring. That
      experience, Cordova is a community immersed in the   fishery  flourished  until  the  infamous  Exxon  Valdez
                                           oil spill in 1989 decimated the region. But Cordova
      culture of the outdoors and known for its breathtaking
      scenery and friendly, colorful residents. Commercial   survived  and  today  their  fishery  is  more  successful
      fishing is the lifeblood of Cordova with nearly every   than ever. Its world-renowned Copper River salmon
      family benefiting from the world-famous Copper River   is  prized  for  its  richness  and  flavor  with  a  high
      Salmon  fishery.  Hike  some  of  the  best  maintained   concentration of heart-healthy Omega 3 fatty acids,
                                           and celebrated for the well-managed and sustainable
      USFS trails in the state or experience one of Cordova’s
      many homegrown festivals. Glacier, rain forest,   oversight that keeps the population healthy.
      wetland and ocean adventures await you in this quaint   The scenic harbor is full of fishing boats, such as
      fishing  village  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Chugach   the small flat-bottomed gillnet boats, well suited for the
      Mountains, along the eastern shores of Prince William   silt laden shallow waters at the mouth of the Copper
                                           River. The larger seine boats are set up for plying the
      Sound and the Copper River Delta. Cordova’s rustic
      charm can transport visitors back in time to the rural   waters of Prince  William Sound for salmon. Even
      America of the mid-twentieth century and is a must-see   larger, the tenders proudly display the banners of the
      destination on any Alaska vacation.   fish  processing  plants  for  which  they  are  buying.  It

     174
   171   172   173   174   175   176   177   178   179   180   181