Page 34 - Breath of the Bear
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Daniel Bunker
          Even though it  was early morning, the sun   knew the right spots to take people to make
        was already high in the sky as  we made our   this an unforgettable day. Out of my bush plane
        final  approach  to  land  on  a  coastal  beach  in   window, I could easily spot eight huge bears,
        Lake  Clark  National  Park.  The  skilled  bush   and I knew there were a lot more out there that
        pilot had just given us our first “experience of a   we could find.
        lifetime” as he climbed up high to safely cross   We started  walking out to the rapidly
        the frigid waters of Cook Inlet. Upon reaching   receding tide line. This is a magical place where
        the other side,  we circled the steaming and   the sea uncovers her delectable bounty twice a
        majestic  Mount  Iliamna.    At  10,016  feet,  this   day. As the tide recedes on this shallow, muddy
        glacier-covered  stratovolcano  overlooks  our   bay, the great Alaskan brown bears come down   these and other powerful animals safely,  you
        destination, the domain of the Alaskan coastal   in droves to dig for razor clams and see what   would be remiss and foolish to go  without a
        brown bear.                          other snacks the tide might leave them.   knowledgeable and experienced guide.
          Precariously  positioned  on  the  “Pacific  Ring   As  we skillfully approached several bears   Naturalist guides know where the bears are.
        of  Fire,”  Lake  Clark  and  Katmai  National  Parks   clamming, I noticed two people  wandering   We guide most every day and know the different
        encompass  over  8  million  acres  of  pristine   rather aimlessly down the beach in between   tides, food sources, fish runs, and seasons. We
        glaciers, active  volcanoes, jagged coastline,   two groups of bears. “That is strange,” I thought   know how these things affect the location and
        salmon streams, and of course, Alaskan coastal   to myself.  As I watched them further, I became   habits of bears. There are many places in Alaska
        brown bears.  They are in the shadow of over   more and more concerned.  They looked lost   that have a lot of bears, but most people will
        15  active  volcanoes  and  countless  mountains   and a little uncertain. I changed the direction   never see them because the bears avoid people
        and glaciers.  This area is so remote that the   of my group to intersect their path. They had   easily.  We also know the best places to see
        only access is by bush plane or boat. Today, we   definitely  found  the  right  spot  for  bears,  but  I   wolves, foxes, and other land and sea animals.
        chose the faster option.             was concerned for their safety.        Naturalist guides know how to read animal
          Our  pilot  put  in  his  final  notch  of  flaps  and   The couple looked relieved to see us. They   behavior and how to keep you safe. Contrary to
        gently kissed the beach with his plane’s beach   were from New Jersey.  Someone had dropped   their reputation, grizzly bears or Alaskan coastal
        tires, I knew this was going to be a great day.   them off and planned to pick them up several   brown bears do not  want to eat  you or harm
        The  bears  were  everywhere.  Being  out  flying   hours later.  I offered them the option to join our   you. In most places, they have an abundance
        and guiding almost every day in the summer, we   group.   They seemed interested, but  wanted   of natural food, which they prefer, and they try
                                             to continue on  their  own  for  now.  Even so  I   to avoid humans. Bears are, however, powerful
                                             decided I would stay close to them.  animals, and if not treated properly can become
                                               We moved to a wooded area looking out over   dangerous.
                                             a salt marsh meadow, green with sedge grass.   Humans have to learn how to act, move, and
                                             Several pairs of bears were peacefully munching   behave in bear country. Our human instincts
                                             sedge in front of us.  As we were approaching   prompt us to do dangerous things around bears
                                             a nice spot to  view these giant bruins, the   such  as  scream  and  run.  Guides  teach  proper
                                             New Jersey couple excitedly bounded ahead,   bear  safety while  safely  allowing you  to  focus
                                             almost  running  (a  big  no-no  in  bear  country).   on the experience.
                                             They stopped abruptly to admire this stunning   Guides help protect the bears.  The Bears
                                             scenery peppered with bears.  All of a sudden,   of  Katmai  and  Lake  Clark  National  Park  are  a
                                             I heard a blood-curdling scream coming from   national treasure. Nowhere else in the  world
                                             their direction. It  was the couple.  They  were   can  you experience such beauty, isolation,
                                             screaming. Seconds before, I had noticed a fox   amount of bears, abundance of food and open
                                             approaching them from their blind side, heading   terrain as on the Katmai coast. This area holds
                                             directly for them. They were so enraptured with   the highest concentration of brown bears in
                                             the  landscape,  the  bears,  and  the  viewfinder   the world. These bears are unique in that they
                                             of  their  camera  (and  understandably  so)  that   have no interaction with urban areas. They have
                                             they failed to look around them and maintain   plenty of their own food and have never tasted
                                             situational awareness.               human food. We want to keep it that way! You
                                               As the couples’ high-pitched scream echoed   may have heard the saying that, “A fed bear is a
                                             in the meadow in front of them, I saw every   dead bear.” Guides are very careful to leave no
                                             brown bear stop eating and turn their attention   trace and make sure no crumbs of food are left
                                             to  the  couple.  “Good  thing  these  bears are   for curious bears to try. As long as bears don’t
                                             accustomed to people and  well-fed at the   associate humans with food, we are much safer
                                             moment,”  I  thought.  The  fox  got  about  4  feet   and so are they.
                                             from them and then turned and scampered off.   My goal every trip is to behave and move
                                             This could have turned out very badly for the   around bears in such a respectful  way so as
                                             couple. High-pitched screaming can trigger the   to not to change or alter their behavior. Most
                                             predator instinct in bears and other predators,   days, I am successful at experiencing bears in
                                             prompting them to chase or at least investigate   an unobtrusive way, a humble human treading
                                             closer. I was glad we were there to help them.   lightly in the domain of the bear.
                                             They stuck a lot closer to my group after that,   As our bush plane descends to the tarmac of
                                     Daniel Bunker
                                             thankful for our presence and guidance as we   the Homer airport, a persistent grin is plastered
                                             saw them safely off.                 on every face. It’s hard to express the beauty
                                               A bear-viewing adventure should be on the   and  majesty  of  the place and the  bears  they
                                             top of everyone’s list if you are visiting Alaska.   just experienced. Digital pictures cannot do it
                                             It never gets old seeing these enormous top   justice, but the mental pictures will be a vivid
                                             predators and iconic Alaskan animals wild and   imprint on their hearts and minds forever.
                                             free in their majestic habitat. To fully experience
                             TM

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